Sunday, May 31, 2015

Thursday 28th May "On the road again............."

Up for breakfast before we left, we went into the hotel area, shouldn't have bothered! Out was crap. Poor choice on everything, the coffee ran out 15 mins before breakfast closed and they refused to make some fresh even though there were about 6 people wanting some!
The van got loaded up, weather was getting hotter, it was pretty warm at the Canyon yesterday, but today started off hotter. Weather forecast is for high temperatures for the next few days, so glad of the aircon in the van!
We were following R66 again, this stretch to Kingman is the best preserved and the most travelled.
Driving through the Kaibab Forest NP again, we were joking about the wildlife we might see, coyotes, wolves, deer, burros and bears!
We took a few wrong turns, nearly ended up another dirt track but got back on track.
On one of our mini detours we saw hundreds of gophers running around the verge, going into their burrows, sitting up surveying the scene, keeping guard. They are very similar to meerkats in how they operate and behave, they are a little bit fatter, like a guinea pig. Very, very quick!
As we went along R66 we noticed a sign for Bearizona, a wildlife sanctuary, we all agreed it might be fum so in we went. Most of it was a drive through, bit like Longleat Safari park. Girl who took our money told us to keep doors and windows closed in the wolf and bear sections and to keep driving if one approached us.
The first few areas were sheep, goats and burros, then we went into the wolves section. Some 4 wolves in there and as we were driving around taking pictures one of them came right up to the van. Some others came over, started a little scuffle and stood in front of the van. Sandra was worried that the one next to her window was going to attempt to jump in. Next thing we know one of them is trying to bite the tyres on the van. Fortunately the one in front of the van had moved and we could move off whilst the other wolf was still trying to bite our tyres!
An area with some bison came next, then the bears.
There were several in there, most about 4-5 years old, a mix of male and female. They were really playful and Sandra managed to get some good pics.
At the end of the drive through area we parked up, went and had a drink before going on the tour bus around the park. This time we learnt a lot more about the animals, their habits, nature and how they arrived at the park. The guide often stopped the bus to feed some of the animals, not the bears or wolves though!
After an interesting tour lasting some 45 mins we pulled back into the parking lot. There was a bird of prey show about to start, so we went there. One of the birds flew so low it was only about 2 inches above people's heads. It would even fly in between people at great speed.
We then went walk about the other animals, including otters, porcupines, beavers and some really young bears. They were only about 5 months old, 2 were up a tree, about 30 feet. They looked like
they would lose their footing and fall at anytime but managed to avoid falling.
We had a really interesting and enjoyable time in the park, it had only been open about 4 years and there were signs of new buildings being put up. Well worth a visit if you're ever this way.
So, back on R66 to Kingman, road was really flat, straight as a die, you could see for miles in front and behind. Many more bikers on this section, even saw a group of about 15 Harley's riding along.
We passed through Seligman, and old R66 town that became derelict some years ago but has now been regenerated as more people travel the back roads. There were old diners, gas stations and even a museum. A really quaint place.
We had booked a traditional motel for our nights stay in Kingman, Top of The Hill motel, a 50's motel. It was only $50 for the night. It was easy to find, as it's name suggests, it was at the top of the hill. We pulled into the parking lot, the girls got out and went to check in. After some 5 mins, they came out with worried looks on there faces, they did not look happy. Sandra was holding her nose, Lel followed the clerk to a room. When we looked inside I have to admit it was very basic. Sandra said that the reception area was very dirty and smelly, and upon looking at the rooms both the girls said " we are not staying here!"
I have to admit the rooms looked more like museum pieces than motel rooms. I know we wanted something a bit authentic and retro for R66 but this was a step too far!
We told the clerk we would not be taking the rooms, saying they were not what we expected. He was fine, quite apologetic and off we went to check in to the Best Western down the road. It was twice the price, but much, much better. It also had a pool and laundry, we both needed to do some washing, so the girls sorted out the washing, we all went to the pool, had a drink and a session in the jacuzzi. The weather was really hot, on the drive down the temp on the car dashboard was saying 96/97 degrees.
Washing done and put away we left the pool, got ready and went across the road to a Mexican restaurant.
Sandra and I had mixed fajitas, beef,chicken and prawns. It came up really hot but some of it was burnt, a bit of a disappointment as we were both looking forward to it.
Again after a long day on the road it was back to our rooms for a few drinks before going to bed.
Vegas tomorrow!!!!!!

Wednesday 27th May. "I can see for miles...................."

Up early for breakfast as today a  long trip. We set off after breakfast to drive to the Grand Canyon. We decided to do a round trip of the South Rim. The roads are well sign posted and the route took us through the San Francisco Montains. One of the peaks has snow on the top, it is the highest point in Arizona at 12633 ft. It dominated the scenery everywhere we looked. We were in Navajo territory, climbing higher and higher in altitude and the scenery got more and more dramatic. As we went along highway 64 we hit a stretch called Desert View. It goes for miles and is a combination of desert and canyon formations, many are spectacular and breathtaking, Lel and Pat were saying " look at that over there" each time we turned a corner or bend. Little did they know what awaited them!
We eventually arrived at the entrance to the Grand Canyon Natonal Park, the ranger was quite humorous, asked where we were from and explained that the guide would need translating as it wasn't in English but American. He wished us a good stay in the park and hoped we enjoyed our stay. I have to say that virtually every American we have met has been really friendly and genuinely pleased that we are using ther couuntry. All are really amazed when we say we are travelling Route 66 and all wish us a safe journey.
We parked the van and proceeded to walk to the watchtower area on the South Rim. This is a build built by the native indians for protection. It gives a great view across the canyon. A few years ago when we first visited I came remember the "wow" factor on my first view over the rim, it certainly doesn't lessen on the 2nd visit!
Sarnie was taking pictures on her phone, am sure some of you have seen them but we were all in awe of the natural beauty before us. The colours of the rocks are amazing and the mountains look like they are a painted backdrop. It doesn't seem real as strange as that may seem.
It is really hard to describe how amazing this place is, you really do have to see it to appreciate how wonderful it is.
There were mobs of people there, so many more than when we last visited. We travelled around the rim, stopping at each viewpoint to take in the ever changing view.
Many pictures were being taken including "selfies", panoramas and normal shots.
After some 2 hours we arrived at the visitors centre where we had a break for lunch.
Sandra and myself couldn't get over how much the place had grown and changed since we were last here.
I hate to think how many visitors this place gets each year!
We saw a few helicopters flying people into the Canyon, maybe something to consider when we get to Vegas.
Our drive took us back through the Kaibab National Forest area. The landscape was really different to      our drive to the Canyon. Still spectacular, on our way back Lel was trying to get a picture of the mountain with the snow on it, but each time she tried the trees got in the way! Eventually we managed to get to a clearing and she got some nice shots.
We arrived  back in Flagstaff tired after our long drive, so we had dinner in the restaurant next to the hotel, TBone steaks, delicious!!!!!!
A few drinks in the room and then to bed.
Lel and Pat were still talking about how amazing the Canyon was, think it really made an impression on them.

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Tuesday 26th May. " Standing on a corner".....................................


Before we left Hoolbrook there was one thing we all wanted to see. Holbrook has a motel called the Wigwam Motel. Some of the rooms are wigwams. Well, not actual wigwams, they are concrete in construction and there are 16 in total. We had tried to book a night in them but they can't be booked online and when we called there was no availability.
We took some photos, there are also a collection of vintage cars outside. Some need some tlc, but all were iconic models from the past.
Off we set after the photos were done. Near to Holbrook is an attraction called the Petrified Forest. Some 255 million years ago trees that had fallen down started to decompose. Over many years instead of breaking down completely they remained intact and turned to stone due to the make up of the soil.
This area was a hot bed of dinosaurs millions of years ago and overtime many fossils and bones have been discovered here. They are all on show in a museum. The petrified trees are just lying all around the area. They look like trees but when you touch them they are stone. It is really strange and quite amazing. Some of the trees have crystals in their make up, there is a variety of colours, quite fascinating really! As we drove around the rest of the park the scenery was really dramatic, rock formations of many different colours and sizes. Very impressive. Towards the end of the drive through the park is the Painted Desert. This area is where the many layers of rock have been uncovered through erosion and there is a myriad of colours on show. Truly impressive. 
As with all the State Parks, some of the Rangers are volunteers, all very knowledgable and passionate about what they do. 
After leaving the park we drove on down I44 until we got to Winslow. We had to stop here to stand on a famous corner.
If you know the Eagles, you'll know what I'm talking about! They have a statue on this corner to commemorate the line from Take It Easy. It goes: " I was standing on a corner in Winslow Arizona, such a fine sight to see. There's a girl my Lord, in a flatbed Ford, slowing down to look at me"
The statue is of a guy with a guitar, it is by a lampost and behind it is a mural of a girl driving a flatbed Ford. It is at the junction of 4 roads, all the shops on the corners were blaring out Eagles songs. A real tourist attraction. There is even a massive R66 sign painted on the road in the centre of the junction.
Off again a few miles down the road and we came to the Meteor Crater site. Millions of years ago this was where a meteorite crashed into Earth at some 26,000 miles per hour. It created a hole in the Earth some 2 miles in circumference, 20 football pitches would fit inside it. What was amazing was that although there were lots of visitors it was so quiet!
Off again to Flagstaff to our motel, we found it after a couple of wrong turns. There is a restaurant, diner actually, attached to the motel. We thought let's go there for a drink. Felt that we needed it after our day of nature! Unfortunately they didn't serve alcohol. The guy in the diner recommended going to the bar next door. It is called the Museum Club and is well known on R66. I discovered that it was built in 1915. It is a log cabin, very large inside. We went and had a drink, were greeted by Missy Jane, she seemed to be the owner. She was a real character, she told us that it was a major music venue and that night 3 live acts were playing. We thought that sounds ok, we asked what musc they played and we were told Country Rap. We decided to give it a go so bought some tickets.
So it was back to the room, showered, changed and off to the diner for a meal. I had fish and chips, it was huge, 4 pieces of fish, I was stuffed!
We went to the Museum Club, where Bubba Sparkxxx was playing. In we walked to the sound of rap, no country. All the guys had their hats on backwards, baggy shorts, long sox, sneakers and write walking around saying "yo paaaaaaarrrrrrtttttyyyyyy"!
The bass was deafening, couldn't understand what the guy was singing apart from the occasional "get down". Every song was cheered loudly by the crowd, then Bubba came on. He had a DJ behind him who kept shouting "say yo". We all had to "give it up for Bubba Sparkxxx as he came on, and as he entered the stage the crowd went mad, rushing to the stage to get a good view.
Bubba's from Georgia and used the word "Motherf......" a lot!
He told unusual that he had been touring all over the world, yet this was his first gig in Flagstaff! Well we never heard any country, only rap. It certainly sounded like "C"rap to me.
We left about midnight and when we got back to the room we Googled up Bubba. He's quite something in the rap world but just not my cut of tea, give me the Eagles any day!

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Monday 25th May. 4 states in a day!

As we had missed going to Oldtown Albuquerque last night we decided to go early this morning. We took the shuttle bus from the hotel, it was very quiet as today is Memorial Day in the U.S. A public holiday. Oldtown is a collection of Spanish/Mexican buildings, a collection of restaurants, craft shops and souvenir shops.
There are little alleyways leading to plazas decorated with flowers, plants etc. all the buildings are terracotta in colour. It is really quaint. There was a Christmas shop there, so as always, Sandra and I bought a decoration for our tree. These always remind us of past holidays.
After an hour or so we took the shuttle back to the hotel and set off on our journey.
A big trip today, leaving R66 to divert North. We were in Indian country, or should I say Native American country. At a gas station one of the assistants advised us of a festival with native dancing, crafts etc. unfortunately it wasn't on our route, so we had to skip that one.
The terrain was very sparse, mountains in the distance, earth and rocks very red in colour. Not much vegetation, what there was looked very dry.
We were driving some 200 miles too go to a unique spot n America. It is the only place where 4 states, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona all meet. It is called 4 corners, and of course the Americans have made it a National Monument. After some 4 hours drive, we arrived there. The Flags of all 4 states are flying as well as the Stars and Stripes. We lined up, eventually we got to stand at the point where all 4 states meet and took our picture.
So our R66 road trip has meant that we will eventually visit 10 states instead of 8 due to this detour.
We were staying in a place called Holbrook, on R66, so off we set.
The landscape was now changing, far more rocks, more hilly but adds always the road was really good, well maintained and very little traffic.
After several hours we arrived n Holbrook, found our motel and went for something to eat. We went to a Denny's across the road. It was quite busy, a tour party of Brits were in there. Our server was a guy called Robert, he was rushed off his feet but was very cheery. Several things we tried to order were not available but we all settled for the TBone with shrimp. It was really good, nice and tender. Robert was still rushing around like a loony, sometimes he needed to be reminded of what we requested but would put that down to how busy the restaurant was.
We went back across the road, had a few drinks in our room then went to bed. It had been a long tiring day, travelling some 500 miles!

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Sunday May 24th. Midpoint

Awoke to sunshine, a relief from yesterday's weather. The forecast is still for bad storms although more to the southeast of where we are. Hopefully we will travel far enough west to drive out of the area.
The reports of damage are very bad, most rainfall in a day in the history of Oklahoma City. 3 people have died, 2 in Texas and 1 in Oklahoma. We knew the storms were bad and think we were very lucky not to get stranded somewhere. That good old British Spirit got us through!
Went down for breakfast, needn't have bothered.
Met by a waitress with a wig that was on a bit crooked, she looked like she belonged in a cartoon strip. We sad we would  have the buffet, gave her or vouchers and sat down. Music was still too loud for breakfast time. The waitress had said the orange juice was not refillable, just one glass. Sandra poured the coffees and I poured the orange juices. The waitress asked if we were together, despite talking to us less than a minute ago. When we said yes, she said we could either have coffee OR orange juice but not both. Sandra and I looked at one another in disbelief, after all this is the country of free refills on coffee, soft drinks and juices. The waitress asked us if we wanted to pay for the juice, we said no and left them there. She then proceeded to pour them back not the jug!
Breakfast didn't improve from there. There were no cereals, the hot choice was poor, bisquits (scones to us), grits ( don't even think about those!) and some dodgy looking eggs and bacon. We settled for some toasted muffins and coffee. The only good thing out of that choice was the muffins, the coffee was the worst cup of coffee I have ever tasted!
Checkout was just as bad, the hotel wanted to charge us the wrong rate. So, that hotel will not be getting a favourable review on Tripadvisor!
As we were all hungry we jumped in the van and drove to the nearest McDonald's for breakfast and coffee. Much needed and sooooooooo tasty!
Off we set on the drive to Albuquerque, along the Interstate. Old Route 66 runs parallel to I40 at this t and in many places the I40 was laid over the top of R66.
It was an easy drive, good weather. We stopped at midpoint, missed the turn off , had to turn around
and go back a junction. Got to the midpoint service station, took or team photos, went to the bathroom and we got talking to a guy and his family. He originally came from Hemel Hampstead, had been living in the USA for 30 years and was on his way back to Nashvlle. His son plays in a band there.
Just as we were about to leave the gas station lady told us to go across the highway and have our photo done at the official midpoint sign. So, we went there, had a look in the Sunflower souvenir shop, got talking to the owner. She loved to chat, was telling us about her nterviews with Ewan McGregor and Billy Connolly. She said Ewan was great but that she couldn't really understand what Billy was all about!
Our trip was mile after mile of Interstate, the scenery was flat and went on for miles as far as you
could see. Lots of herds of cows, and loads of wind farms. Seems the main source of income is either
cows or turbines. Seems odd that cows are responsible for producing methane which is bad for the
environment, yet they are standing alongside wind turbines they are supposed to counteract the effect
greenhouse gasses have!
We passed what looked like a slaughterhouse, there were thousands of cows there, all in pens waiting to be turned into steaks and burgers! I don't think I have seen so many cows in one place at the same time. Looking at the land and the size of that herd you can maybe understand how difficult it must have been to be on a cattle drive all those years ago.
The weather was still ok, a few dark clouds in the distance but nothing to really worry about.
We arrived at Albuquerque, eventually found our way to the hotel. It was in the business district, so very quiet. Check in was so much more professional, friendly and efficient than yesterday. Rooms were great as expected. It was early so we went downstairs for a beer. We arrived just as the bar opened. It was sunny so we sat outside, the girls had sangria, boys had beers. At 5 pm it was happy hour, so the girls had cocktails, the beers were cheaper so naturally we carried on drinking. Next up was the fizz at only $40 a bottle.
Decided to get ready to go out,we wanted to go to the Oldtown district. It is an area of original buildings in a Spanish/ Mexican style with bars, shops and places to eat. We asked for directions at
the desk but were told that area closes about 8 pm every evening. We decided to go there early
tomorrow before we left, so ate in the hotel.
We all ordered ribeye steaks, they were massive. We also got some potatoes with it, all were boiled but in  different colours. Normal, red and purple! Despite looking strange they were really nice. We had a few drinks in the bar then went to bed.

Sunday, May 24, 2015

Saturday May 23rd. Is this the way to Amarillo?........................

Greeted this morning by a wet start, very misty, hardly any visibility. Put on the TV to watch The Weather Channel and heard the following: potential flash flooding and heavy thunder storms in West Texas and Oklahoma over the next 3 days. Up to 6 inches of rain forecast over the weekend. Serious risk of tornados the in that area as well!
Did we contemplate delaying moving on? Maybe stay a couple of extra days in  Oaklahoma to ride out the storm? Of course not, we're British and used to a bit of bad weather!!!!!!
After a brief breakfast, room was too small for all the people, we set of for Amarillo. Wipers, lights and windscreen blower on we made our way down R66. First inkling as to how bad things could get was when we drove past a lake some 20 mins into our journey and the water was almost over the banks.
Still we carried on. Rain wasn't too bad and R66 was easy to follow so all was looking good. Had a couple of stops for coffee and toilet breaks, came to a section near a town called Calumet when the instructions said turn left at the house. We all went ????????????
Anyway, along the road we went, saw the house, saw the road so down it we went. I say road, it was more like a dirt road. We carried on, the dirt track got worse and worse, no signs of life and it looked like it carried on for miles! The earth in Oklahoma is very red in colour and as we went down this dirt road in the rain the mud splashed up the side of the van and turned it from white to red!
The road was getting muddier and muddier and more remote. Eventually we came to a 4 way junction with a slightly better road surface. We turned right hoping that we would come out close to the town of Calumet. The road turned into a dirt track after about 100 yards and was worse than the one we had just left. Being British we soldiered on, of course we did!
Eventually we came to a "proper road", one with Tarmac! We turned left and picked up a highway, good old "Rand" had come to or rescue. After some 6 miles we picked up R66 again and carried on. We planned to stop at Elk City to look at the National R66 museum. The sky was getting darker and
darker, the rain was getting heavier, the wind was getting stronger and as we travelled along old R66  the puddles were getting wider and deeper!
Suddenly, it looked like night time although it was only 11am. With that the skies opened and the rain
came down in torrents. It was so fierce that the wipers on fast speed hardly cleared the windscreen of water.
We decided to abandon R66 and go on the Interstate to Elk City. Traffic was slow and the spray was bad, visibility down to about 20 yards, but we managed to make good progress. We saw the turn off for Elk City and took it, as we turned off we noticed that the road was more like a river! Water was gushing down the road, unable to go anywhere and forming puddles across the highway. As we got closer to the town centre the puddles started to join up from either side of the road, so it looked more
like a river. Fields were flooded, sidewalks couldn't be seen and if we travelled over 5 mph we sprayed water everywhere.
We finally reached the R66 museum car park, but couldn't get out as the car park was under 4 inches
of running water. The rain was torrential, so no sign of it stopping. As is the case in all emergencies
like this we do the only thing possible......... Turn to food. There was a KFC opposite, so we went
there to get something to eat and wait a while. The front part of the restaurant was slightly flooded.
We went to order food and I asked the way back to I44. The staff said that the roads out of town were
closed due to flash floods! Have just posted a video of the flooding on Facebook. A customer said
there was still access to I44 but a staff member said that the police had advised her that access to I44 had been shut.
We had noticed the police had closed the road we entered town on, so things had got worse in the space of 15mins.
When asked when the roads would reopen, a staff member said 15-16 hours, the rain was forecast to last for 3 days!
With that we decided to try to get to I44 and drive to Amarillo. Off we set, rain still lashing down but the road was a little better than the previous one. Eventually we made it to I44 and carried on our  way.
The next thing was the thunder and lightning, the skies got darker, the rain got heavier, but we carried on! Slowly but surely the rain eased, the skies brightened and the driving got easier. In fact as we
crossed the Texas State line the rain stopped!
We made good progress, stopping at the Welcome centre for a comfort break. There were 3 guys on
Harley's drying their stuff out, wouldn't have wanted to have been on those during that storm. I'm
sure Billy Connolly would have given up faced with those conditions.
We saw the aftermath of the storm all the way into Amarillo and in fact we noticed something really dark in the distance. It was a mass of rain clouds and as soon as we hit the city limits the heavens opened. We found our hotel with not too much difficulty, Sandra and Lel went to check us I in. After what seemed ages, out they came. Apparently the hotel couldn't find our booking. Eventually got checked in, room is a good size, massive bed, sofa, table and desk. Bathroom a bit small though. The
hotel is undergoing renovation (another one!)' a bit naughty that it isn't on Booking .com website. We went to get something to eat, but the hotel diner was playing music so loud we couldn't hear ourselves talk. We left and went a block down to the Olive Garden where we had a great big blowout!
We went back to our hotel, had a freshen up, and Lel and Pat joined us for a few drinks. After the day we had I don't think any of us fancied too late a night.
We planned our next week's journey, we are going to Four Corners Monument, the only site in the U.S. where 4 states come together. We will also visit the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley and eventually make our way to Las Vegas here we'll stay 3 nights in the Bellagio. Sarnie cannot wait!

Friday, May 22, 2015

Friday, May 22nd. "Oklahoma City is mighty pretty".............................

Awoke to heavy rain and bad weather warnings for Oklahoma and parts of Texas for the next few days. There was even a tornado warning!
We drove out of Tulsa, for a few miles, then hit a detour. Of course that threw us off the way we needed to go, so we took a guess, found a Route 66 sign and followed it. Only problem was we found ourselves at the Hard Rock where we were yesterday!
We needed some gas so pulled into a gas station, fled up, got some coffees and I asked the staff if they knew the way to R66.
A guy in a cowboy hat said " how far you going?". I said LA. He said "what all the way on 66?". I said yes. He explained that the I44 at this point is also the old R66, so we needed to follow that. He gave me directions as to where we needed to get off the Interstate and follow R66. I thanked him and as I said goodbye he said in a Dck Van Dyke English accent " Don't you mean okey dokey?" I said Luvvly Jubbly and he fell about laughing! He wished me a good trip and to keep safe.
The rain and spray made driving difficult on the Interstate but we took our time, kept a safe distance from cars in front and were ok. However as always there are the nutters who drive too fast, too close and with no lights on.
We picked up R66, saw an accident where a car had spun off the highway, police were on the scene. That served as a reminder to drive carefully.
The roadways fairly straight and of a good quality. Along the way we saw lots of old fashioned caravans and Winnebagos, including a couple of Airstreams, travelling in a convoy. As it is a holiday weekend over here it looks as if they were traveling to some kind of meeting or rally.
Instructions were easy to follow today and we made good time. Some guy cut us up in traffic, pulled right across into our lane, do not know how I managed to slam on my brakes and avoid hitting him.
We drove into Oklahoma on R66 getting great views of the Captol building. We found or way to our hotel, unpacked and rested before going out to dinner. We went to Applebee's, these always remind Sarnie and myself of Val, my sister. They were her favourite place to eat, especially when we wen't to visit her. Food was good and not too expensive. Got back to our room about 9.15, had a drink and chat before going to bed approx 11pm.
We have a long drive tomorrow, some 250 miles, so are getting an early start. I hope we will drive through most of the bad weather tomorrow.